Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Geneva's Rough Crossing

Geneva
Ginevra

Geneva’s explicit description of her meeting with F. Scott Fitzgerald on board the ocean liner Conte Biancamano sets her 1929 travel diary apart. Authors William Loos and Victor Doyno wrote of Geneva’s resemblance to Fitzgerald’s first love, Ginevra King, in their essay “Fitzgerald’s Very ‘Rough Crossing:’”

From available photographs it is apparent that she bore a resemblance to F. Scott Fitzgerald’s first love, Ginevra King. The similarity in names must have caught his attention….imagine what it must have been like for Fitzgerald-drunk or sober-suddenly to find himself on an ocean voyage with a more mature reincarnation, in face and almost in name, of his teenage sweetheart. 

The Rough Crossing

In her diary, Geneva wrote of her March 4 meeting with Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda:
Met Scott Fitzgerald and little wife with name commencing with Z- Played bridge with Williams and wife. Later talked to Fitzg and wife- both very tight. She was probably very pretty when younger and very amusing. He ended by asking Mrs. Williams something about mens private parts and Ms. Fitzgerald called him a fool- (Scott you fool you better shut up) One can never talk about anything seriously with people- Everyone was paralyzed- He turned to me and I said I am silly I can never answer you. He followed me out saying I was beautiful and he loved me but I was very silly and kissed my hand. Scott and I had been talking about literature. He maintained that Mencken was the greatest man of the age and I standing up for George Bernard Shaw, James Branch Cabell, Anatole France saying they were fun but that Mencken was silly and trivial- that greatness had to be constructive not destructive for the race. He turned from this to Mrs. W. and said Mrs. W. do women like mens private large or small? He kept at her then his wife spoke up then and he turned to me and said Geneva won’t you answer me and I said you think I’m silly how could I.

Monday, May 9, 2011

Lecture this Wednesday

Complicated, colorful, mysterious India is the presentation topic for traveler Michael Stock as part of the "Exotic Travels" Lunchtime Series at the downtown Central Library on Wednesday, May 11, from 12 noon-1 p.m. Free, presented in conjunction with current exhibit "Travelers and Cosmopolitans: The Tourist is the Other Fellow" now through May 28. Travel vicariously with us!

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Portraits by Clawson

A skilled photographer, H. Phelps Clawson often took note of the people he met on his journeys, including his trips to France, Egypt and the Sudan as part of the Harvard University - Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition, and during his 1911 excursion to Russia and northern Europe.  Below are a few of those he met and captured with his ever-present camera.


"Bedouin girl and baby near Pyramids, 1927."

"The Oldest Guide," Les Baux, France.  April 13, 1933.

Workmen performing sword dance, Egypt.

Stokers onboard the Dunnottar Castle ocean liner, 1911.

"Roasting coffee.  Eyragues, Bouches-du​-Rhone.  July 19, 1933."

"Scene on the Empress of Britain, July 20, 1911."

Unknown woman, Paris.

"Russian Cossacks at St. Isaac's, St. Petersburg​," 1911

Archaeologist Noel F. Wheeler in Egypt.

"The traveling merchant.  'Bazar ambulant.'  He begins at Marseilles
and visits all the small out of the way towns.  For the household,
he had every imaginable thing.  Greoux les Bains (B.A.).  May 22, 1933."
 

Monday, April 18, 2011

Travel Lecture this Thursday!

In conjunction with the current exhibition Travelers and Cosmopolitans: the Tourist is the Other Fellow, a series of Exotic Travels lunchtime talks will be held at Central Library.

Travel vicariously with us this Thursday, April 21, noon – 1 p.m., as Dr. Richard Lee talks about “Medicine in the Slow Lane: Travels to Out-of-the-Way Places.”  The exhibit will also be open for viewing.  All events are free and open to the public.

Upcoming lectures:
  • Wednesday, May 5, noon - 1 p.m.  Michael Stock presents "I.N.D.I.A."
  • Friday, May 20, noon - 1 p.m.  Chuck LaChiusa on cruising Russia.
Directions to Central Library can be found here

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

"Digging is a Grave Problem"

Few, if any, normal boys pass the state of adolescence without feeling the urge to undertake some kind of exploration or embark on a hunt for buried treasure.

So began a 1938 article from the Buffalo Courier Express profiling H. Phelps Clawson and his work with the Harvard University-Boston Museum of Fine Arts Archaeological Expedition to Egypt and the Sudan.  Clawson worked as an archaeologist from 1924 to 1931.  Working conditions were difficult, and for one 14 week period, Clawson copied records in a tiny underground chamber measuring only 11 x 8 x 6 feet.

Clawson's transcription of "The Story of Sinuhe."
The Rare Book Room holds a collection of Clawson's papers, which contain significant documentation of his work on the expedition.  His notebooks record his daily activities, peotry, scores of photographs, and his transcription of "The Story of Sinuhe" (as published in K.E. Sethe's Aegyptische Lesestucke) contain hieroglyphs, phonetics, and English translation.

Selective images of his notebooks and photographs are below; click on each for a larger view.  Further images, as well as the finding aid for the H. Phelps Clawson Papers can be viewed- see "Resources" at left.  Lastly, the "H. Phelps Clawson" link at the top of this page has a full biography.


"Song leader at excavations, Sarras AE Sudan 1931."

Clawson with his trusty 7 horsepower Jewett automobile.

Abu Simbel.

Digsite.  Clawson with Noel F. Wheeler.

“15 here.  67 all together.  We sorted them all out 
carefully according to where from- all from 1 tomb.”

"Light and shade and the trace of a rainbow.  
Pyramid of Cheops, 1927"


"Modern Egyptian beds differ little from the style 
used 5,000 years ago of which many specimens are 
found in the tombs.  They consist of a frame 
across which ropes are stretched.  Mr. Clawson 
says they are quite comfortable.  A 4,000 
year old piece of pottery, found in perfect condition 
at Sarras, is shown at this feet."

Source: "Digging is a Grave Problem," Buffalo Courier Express, July 3, 1938, page 4. Courtesy Buffalo State College Archives and Special Collections, repository for the Buffalo Courier Express archives.

Photo at top of entry: "Our camp at Pyramids. Pyramid of Cheops or Kufu. 1929." Photo taken by Clawson during Harvard University - Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition in Egypt and the Sudan.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Baedeker's: Don't Leave Home Without It

In 1827, Karl Baedeker started a publishing company in Germany.  Soon thereafter, he published the first of many of his iconic red-bound travel guides.  Baedeker did not invent the travel guide.  What set his guides apart was the accurate description and ratings of sites, architecture, maps, hotels, prices, and customs.  So influential were these guides, in 1942 the German Luftwaffe bombed Exeter, Bath, Norwich, York, and Canterbury in Great Britain in what came to be known as the Baedeker Blitz.  These towns were chosen because of their 3-star ratings in Baedeker's Guide to Great Britain.

Today, pre-World War I and II Baedeker's are highly collectible.  The Rare Book Room at the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library holds many issues.  A selection can be viewed below.


Karnak, pp. 124-125, from Baedeker's Upper Egypt
Leipsic : K. Baedeker, 1892.  Call # DT45 .B17 1892

Map of Nile districts, from Baedeker's Upper Egypt
Leipsic : K. Baedeker, 1892.   Call # DT45 .B17 1892.

Baedeker's Central Italy.  Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  
Call # DG416 .B155 1900.

Map of the Vatican, from Baedeker's Central Italy
Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  Call # DG416 .B155 1900.

Customs for tourists in Italy, from Baedeker's Central Italy
Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  Call # DG416 .B155 1900.

Elevation of Roman Forum, from Baedeker's Central Italy
Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  Call # DG416 .B155 1900.
More images of Baedeker's can be viewed here.


Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Esperia and Bridge


On March 29 and 30, 1922, Geneva and friends sailed to Esperia, Italy after spending nearly 3 weeks in Egypt. Note her entries from these days give no description at all of Esperia! But she does write of her success at cards. While traveling, Geneva frequently made time for playing bridge (often during evening cocktails). Card games, and bridge in particular, were extremely popular in the 1920s. Geneva often ends her daily diary entries with notes on that day's bridge game, especially if she won.


Sunday, March 27, 2011

Geneva and the "Red Count"

Geneva's 1927 travel diary
In 1927, the Porters set sail again, this time on the Conte Rosso ocean liner with fellow passengers and local luminaries the Schoellkopfs and senior Clawsons (H. Phelps' parents). Ocean travel aboard a luxury liner may sound glamorous. However, on March 3, Geneva wrote in her diary of a fierce three day storm:
I awoke in the middle of the night with the bowl of pink roses on my chest. In a few minutes everything in the rooms had fallen- chairs, trunks, everything and the bathroom was a merry go round of trunks and luggage- The boat was rolling from side to side so we could not stand up and hardly stay in bed without hanging on to both sides. We are in the worst storm anyone can remember….Pete’s bed is moving around the room….We are in the trough and waves high as mountains. The stewardess tells us to stay in bed because of broken limbs and flying furniture….Our room is a sight with broken glass….We have changed course three times. It certainly is exciting when the waves hit the boat. I find I am an old salt- never sick or afraid.
On this holiday, the Porters visited 19 cities in 6 countries in 2 months, including those in Italy, Greece, Turkey, Romania, Austria, and France.  The Conte Rosso was a new ship with service beginning 1922.  Known for its luxurious appointments, including steam laundry and outdoor dining, the ostentatious decor was reportedly $400,000, a significant cost for the early 20s.
The main dining salon and lounge are in the style of the fifteenth century.  They are both finished in solid oak, with embossed leather panels, and have the furniture of that period with elaborate sculpture, carvings, and other ornaments.  The music and dancing salon is in the classic Roman-Pompeian style.  The centre holds a slightly raised platform supported by Ionic columns, and the entire effect is that of an old Venetian palace.  The smoking room is Oriental, and in the library and writing room Florentine Renaissance is carried out to the last detail.  (Source:  "Italy's Newest Liner a Model of Luxury."  New York Times, February 19, 1922.)
The Travel Film Archive website has vintage travel film from this era.  The Longest Gangplank was filmed in 1926 on board a similar, though less ostentatious, trans Atlantic cruise and disembarking in France.  View the film here.

Friday, March 18, 2011

Clawson's Menagerie


H. Phelps Clawson took hundreds of photographs when he traveled.  Not content with just capturing the obvious tourist sites, Phelps had a soft spot for animals.  Regardless of time or place, Phelps made sure to document his four-legged friends in all matter of disposition.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Geneva's Egypt, March 10 to 28, 1922

This is the fourth entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry describes her voyage across the Atlantic onboard the RMS Adriatic.  The first stop was in Madeira, Portugal, followed by a short visit to Algiers.  Read all of Geneva's 1922 diary - see the link under "Resources" at left.
For 18 days in 1922, Geneva and Peter Porter, and friends Paul and Penn Schoellkopf traveled throughout Egypt, including Alexandria, Cairo, Heliopolis, Luxor, Thebes, Asswan, Sakkara, and Memphis.  On March 11, Geneva and friends arrived in Cairo, stayed at the historic Shepheard's Hotel, and toured the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, the pyramids at Giza, and Heliopolis.  Below is an image of her diary entries for March 11 and 12.  Click "Read More" for transcriptions.


Monday, March 7, 2011

Travel Magazine

Travel magazine cover.  February 1933.
Travel magazine was in production from 1902 to 2003.  Perfect for those planning trips or just daydreaming of a getaway, the magazine's covers featured beautiful graphic artwork to capture the imagination of readers.  View more Travel covers here.

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

"A Small Paris." Geneva visits Algiers, March 1 to 2, 1922

This is the third entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry can be viewed here and the second here.  Geneva spent only 24 hours in Algiers, and describes her impressions as a wealthy American tourist in some detail.  Her 1922 diary can be viewed in total- see the link under "Resources" at left.

Wednesday March 1, 1922.  24 hrs.  The coast of Africa and Atlas mtns. are stunning.

Algiers- a beautiful white city (a small Paris). We have had a very pleasant day loafing about. Mr. and Mrs. Sonnsberry[?] and Mr. and Mrs. Shove [?] and Miss Kirkland have planned to go ashore together with us.  We left on first tender about eight o'clock drove all over the city.  Our two guides took us into Arab quarter.  I never saw anything like the narrow streets some all steps no light or air.  Hundreds of overhanging balconies and dark mysterious passageways-

Monday, February 28, 2011

The Empress of Britain, Cossacks, and H. Phelps Clawson


In 1911, at just 19 years of age, H. Phelps Clawson boarded the luxury liner Empress of Britain in Quebec, Canada. At the time, the Empress of Britain was one of the fastest ships crossing the Atlantic.  Clawson took scores of photographs documenting his adventures on board and on land, and his penchant for capturing everyday people and activities is clearly evident, even at this young age.  Making his way through Europe, he also sailed on the Dunottar Castle and the Olympic ocean liners.  A selection of these photographs is on display here, offering a unique view of Scandinavia, France, and Germany before the first World War, as well as pre-Soviet Russia.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Madeira, Portugal - February 25 to 26, 1922

This is the second entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry can be viewed here.

A view of Funchal towards east from Pico da Cruz (261 m), Madeira, Portugal.
Picture taken by Ville Koistinen (Wikimedia Commons)
On February 25, 1922, Geneva Thompson Porter disembarked from the RMS Adriatic at the port of Funchal in Madeira, Portugal.  Her entries are wonderfully descriptive of the lush island landscape as well as the social life at Reid's Palace Hotel.  Reid's opened in 1891, and by the 1920s, catered to the rich, famous, and royal, looking for luxe accommodations.  The hotel is still operating, and Funchal remains a popular port for trans-Atlantic cruises.  Below are transcriptions and an image of Geneva's diary entries.  You can read her full 1922 travel diary; use the link under "Resources" at left.


Saturday, February 25, 1922.  Funchal, Madeira, 26 hours.  Reid's Palace Hotel. 

The Steward says it's a beautiful day and we will get to Madeira at three o'clock so I will have to pack in a little while.  The island is perfectly beautiful by the sea all mountainous - saw clouds hanging over the tops.  As soon as we stopped hundreds of little row boats came out with boys who dive for coins and men selling linens, parrots, furniture, flowers, and corals.  We all went ashore at three o'clock and drove all over the town.  It is a fairy spot on the earth the stucco houses all pale colors with tiled or straw roofs with lovely old walls and garden gates and trumpet and bougainvillea vines traveling over everything.  The houses are terraced like steps right up the mountain.  Peeping through the gates one sees fascinating...

Sunday, February 26, 1922.  Did not get good picture of gateways, terraces, or entrance to church yard.

...paths lined with flower pots on the winding steps.  We all had tea at Reid's Palace Hotel on the verandah [sic] overlooking the bay.  Had dinner with fourteen boys and girls.  Jenkins (consul), Watts (Philadelphia arts critic), Ali Bey Yehia (son of Pasha Alexandria), Vieriere de Casta (Portuguese), Boardley (or something like that, an Englishman living on island), Mr. Harrison (Philadelphia), Mrs. Wood (Philadelphia), Mrs. Murphy, Miss Murphy - were some of the guests.  After we went to the Casino danced and watched the gambling.  We sat on the terrace and drank champagne.  Drove home in the Bullock carts (burros).  The gardens around the hotel are lovely. Sunday we sent up the mountain by train.  Had lunch at Esplanade came down in sledges so tired all had a nap when we got back to the boat.  Watched Pete, Mr. Lane, Mr. Grovern [?], Mr. Sonnsberry[?] play bridge.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Vintage Travel Posters

The Rare Book Room at the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library holds thousands of posters. Some of the most visually appealing graphics appear in those dealing with travel. The use and artistic merit of posters exploded with the invention of chromolithography in the nineteenth century. Originally, these posters were designed as advertisements to capture the imaginations of travelers and included imagery of exotic locales and luxurious accommodations. Today, vintage travel posters are highly collectible. Click "Read More" to see a selection of travel posters from the exhibition.

Friday, February 18, 2011

Bon Voyage!

89 years ago today, Geneva Porter and her husband Peter embarked on a 4 month cruise (February to June, 1922) on board the RMS Adriatic. At the time, cruises such as this were a posh affair and often made the New York Times as social news with lists of prominent travelers. The Rare Book Room of the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library is privileged to hold Geneva's diary of her grand tour. Entries range from the quality of the food on the cruise to rich descriptions of landscapes and vistas. Joined by good friends and local notables Paul and Penn Schoellkopf, the Porters toured Algiers, Gibraltar, Egypt, France, Belgium, and Italy. Below is an image and transcription of Geneva's diary from February 18, 1922. Subscribe to this blog or check back often to read more entries from her diaries.  Can't wait?  Click here to read all of Geneva's entries regarding her 1922 trip.

Adriatic. 1922. Saturday 18 February.  What a hurry!  And what fun and excitement in the farewells on an ocean liner just about to start.  Everybody feel a bit queerly watching the Statue of Liberty disappear in the distance.  We certainly have been loaded down with presints [sic] of all sorts.  We found some Buffalonian on board.  Pete also some New York friends.  We are all sitting together- 3 children, governess, etc.  The food is very good.  It is so cold Penn and I have decided to stay in our rooms today.  Paul and Pete have gone for a swim.  It seemed very funny having wine with our dinner.  As we were at table, the new boat Paris passed.  We sat in the lounge and smoked after dinner.  We went up to the bar for beer before bed then Pete and I took a walk in the moonlight.



Monday, February 14, 2011

The Oddities of H. Phelps Clawson

Phelps was a skilled photographer and took hundreds of photographs when he traveled.  With a sharp eye for the unique, here are a few of the more unusual sites he captured.


Passengers playing cricket on board the Dunottar Castle ocean liner, 1911.
 
GIANT termite nest near Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais.  Brazil, December 1941.


Offerings for the Devil at the base of a tree. Bahia, Brazil 1941.  Below are Phelps' diary entries describing the custom.


From bottom of page:
"Tree on the road with offerings for the Exir (the Devil).  
Dish of Indian corn, a number of cigars, a piece of meat,...


"...jaw of an animal, several pots (now broken) bits of colored cloth.  All there lay at roots of tree.  Sometimes a goat or cock are left.  A man wants something.  He summons the Exir who may appear as a hen, a chicken, a pig, etc.  The fifth time he comes as the Devil.  The bargain is made then for a price (money, a goat, a cow (rarely) or the man's soul.  Then he gets his desire."

Want to learn more?  Read H. Phelps Clawson's Brazil diary here.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Homes of Geneva Thompson Porter

378 Goundry, North Tonawanda.  Photo courtesy of and owned by the Historical Society of the Tonawandas.
Geneva Thompson Porter and her husband Peter spent much of the 1920s on ocean liners, traveling throughout Europe, North Africa, and the Far East. The Rare Book Room holds 3 of Geneva's diaries, describing her 1922, 1927, and 1929 European and North African excursions, covering some 81 cities in 15 countries. But when the Porters weren’t traveling, they spent time at their residences in Western New York and Rhode Island.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Travel Advertisements

Remember when travel was glamorous?  The field of advertising and mass-circulated magazines exploded in the prosperous 1920s, and the luxury and excitement of travel was a key feature in ads from this era. Click "Read more" below to view more advertisements.
"The summer season in Venice...."  From L'Illustration, 1920s.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Greetings to Buffalo!

The Rare Book Room holds thousands of antique and modern postcards, dating from the late 1800s to the 1990s. The collection began at the old Grosvenor and Buffalo Public libraries. Most were not posted; however, some have messages sent from travelers abroad to loved ones in Buffalo. A small portion dating from the 1920s and 30s is on display here. Click on each image for a larger view.

Postcard from Cairo, Egypt. H.W.W. to Miss Emily M. Williams, February 7, 1935.
Postcard from Heidelberg, Germany. George to Jerome Wereck, July 19, 1937.

Postcard from Paris, France. Sent to Betty Williams, January 17, 1924.

Postcard from Venice, Italy. Grace R. Bials to Mrs. Lawrence Allen.