Geneva and the "Red Count"

Geneva's 1927 travel diary

In 1927, the Porters set sail again, this time on the Conte Rosso ocean liner with fellow passengers and local luminaries the Schoellkopfs and senior Clawsons (H. Phelps' parents). Ocean travel aboard a luxury liner may sound glamorous. However, on March 3, Geneva wrote in her diary of a fierce three day storm:

I awoke in the middle of the night with the bowl of pink roses on my chest. In a few minutes everything in the rooms had fallen- chairs, trunks, everything and the bathroom was a merry go round of trunks and luggage- The boat was rolling from side to side so we could not stand up and hardly stay in bed without hanging on to both sides. We are in the worst storm anyone can remember….Pete’s bed is moving around the room….We are in the trough and waves high as mountains. The stewardess tells us to stay in bed because of broken limbs and flying furniture….Our room is a sight with broken glass….We have changed course three times. It certainly is exciting when the waves hit the boat. I find I am an old salt- never sick or afraid.

On this holiday, the Porters visited 19 cities in 6 countries in 2 months, including those in Italy, Greece, Turkey, Romania, Austria, and France.  The Conte Rosso was a new ship with service beginning 1922.  Known for its luxurious appointments, including steam laundry and outdoor dining, the ostentatious decor was reportedly $400,000, a significant cost for the early 20s.

The main dining salon and lounge are in the style of the fifteenth century.  They are both finished in solid oak, with embossed leather panels, and have the furniture of that period with elaborate sculpture, carvings, and other ornaments.  The music and dancing salon is in the classic Roman-Pompeian style.  The centre holds a slightly raised platform supported by Ionic columns, and the entire effect is that of an old Venetian palace.  The smoking room is Oriental, and in the library and writing room Florentine Renaissance is carried out to the last detail.  (Source:  "Italy's Newest Liner a Model of Luxury."  New York Times, February 19, 1922.)

The Travel Film Archive website has vintage travel film from this era.  The Longest Gangplank was filmed in 1926 on board a similar, though less ostentatious, trans Atlantic cruise and disembarking in France.  View the film here.

Clawson's Menagerie

H. Phelps Clawson took hundreds of photographs when he traveled.  Not content with just capturing the obvious tourist sites, Phelps had a soft spot for animals.  Regardless of time or place, Phelps made sure to document his four-legged friends in all matter of disposition.

Geneva's Egypt, March 10 to 28, 1922

This is the fourth entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry describes her voyage across the Atlantic onboard the RMS Adriatic.  The first stop was in Madeira, Portugal, followed by a short visit to Algiers.  Read all of Geneva's 1922 diary - see the link under "Resources" at left.

For 18 days in 1922, Geneva and Peter Porter, and friends Paul and Penn Schoellkopf traveled throughout Egypt, including Alexandria, Cairo, Heliopolis, Luxor, Thebes, Asswan, Sakkara, and Memphis.  On March 11, Geneva and friends arrived in Cairo, stayed at the historic Shepheard's Hotel, and toured the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, the pyramids at Giza, and Heliopolis.  Below is an image of her diary entries for March 11 and 12.  Click "Read More" for transcriptions.

Travel Magazine

Travel magazine cover.  February 1933.

Travel magazine was in production from 1902 to 2003.  Perfect for those planning trips or just daydreaming of a getaway, the magazine's covers featured beautiful graphic artwork to capture the imagination of readers.  View more Travel covers here.

"A Small Paris." Geneva visits Algiers, March 1 to 2, 1922

This is the third entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry can be viewed here and the second here.  Geneva spent only 24 hours in Algiers, and describes her impressions as a wealthy American tourist in some detail.  Her 1922 diary can be viewed in total- see the link under "Resources" at left.

Wednesday March 1, 1922.  24 hrs.  The coast of Africa and Atlas mtns. are stunning.

Algiers- a beautiful white city (a small Paris). We have had a very pleasant day loafing about. Mr. and Mrs. Sonnsberry[?] and Mr. and Mrs. Shove [?] and Miss Kirkland have planned to go ashore together with us.  We left on first tender about eight o'clock drove all over the city.  Our two guides took us into Arab quarter.  I never saw anything like the narrow streets some all steps no light or air.  Hundreds of overhanging balconies and dark mysterious passageways-

The Empress of Britain, Cossacks, and H. Phelps Clawson

In 1911, at just 19 years of age, H. Phelps Clawson boarded the luxury liner Empress of Britain in Quebec, Canada. At the time, the Empress of Britain was one of the fastest ships crossing the Atlantic.  Clawson took scores of photographs documenting his adventures on board and on land, and his penchant for capturing everyday people and activities is clearly evident, even at this young age.  Making his way through Europe, he also sailed on the Dunottar Castle and the Olympic ocean liners.  A selection of these photographs is on display here, offering a unique view of Scandinavia, France, and Germany before the first World War, as well as pre-Soviet Russia.

Madeira, Portugal - February 25 to 26, 1922

This is the second entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry can be viewed here.

A view of Funchal towards east from Pico da Cruz (261 m), Madeira, Portugal.
Picture taken by Ville Koistinen (Wikimedia Commons)

On February 25, 1922, Geneva Thompson Porter disembarked from the RMS Adriatic at the port of Funchal in Madeira, Portugal.  Her entries are wonderfully descriptive of the lush island landscape as well as the social life at Reid's Palace Hotel.  Reid's opened in 1891, and by the 1920s, catered to the rich, famous, and royal, looking for luxe accommodations.  The hotel is still operating, and Funchal remains a popular port for trans-Atlantic cruises.  Below are transcriptions and an image of Geneva's diary entries.  You can read her full 1922 travel diary; use the link under "Resources" at left.



Saturday, February 25, 1922.  Funchal, Madeira, 26 hours.  Reid's Palace Hotel. 

The Steward says it's a beautiful day and we will get to Madeira at three o'clock so I will have to pack in a little while.  The island is perfectly beautiful by the sea all mountainous - saw clouds hanging over the tops.  As soon as we stopped hundreds of little row boats came out with boys who dive for coins and men selling linens, parrots, furniture, flowers, and corals.  We all went ashore at three o'clock and drove all over the town.  It is a fairy spot on the earth the stucco houses all pale colors with tiled or straw roofs with lovely old walls and garden gates and trumpet and bougainvillea vines traveling over everything.  The houses are terraced like steps right up the mountain.  Peeping through the gates one sees fascinating...

Sunday, February 26, 1922.  Did not get good picture of gateways, terraces, or entrance to church yard.

...paths lined with flower pots on the winding steps.  We all had tea at Reid's Palace Hotel on the verandah [sic] overlooking the bay.  Had dinner with fourteen boys and girls.  Jenkins (consul), Watts (Philadelphia arts critic), Ali Bey Yehia (son of Pasha Alexandria), Vieriere de Casta (Portuguese), Boardley (or something like that, an Englishman living on island), Mr. Harrison (Philadelphia), Mrs. Wood (Philadelphia), Mrs. Murphy, Miss Murphy - were some of the guests.  After we went to the Casino danced and watched the gambling.  We sat on the terrace and drank champagne.  Drove home in the Bullock carts (burros).  The gardens around the hotel are lovely. Sunday we sent up the mountain by train.  Had lunch at Esplanade came down in sledges so tired all had a nap when we got back to the boat.  Watched Pete, Mr. Lane, Mr. Grovern [?], Mr. Sonnsberry[?] play bridge.

Vintage Travel Posters

The Rare Book Room at the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library holds thousands of posters. Some of the most visually appealing graphics appear in those dealing with travel. The use and artistic merit of posters exploded with the invention of chromolithography in the nineteenth century. Originally, these posters were designed as advertisements to capture the imaginations of travelers and included imagery of exotic locales and luxurious accommodations. Today, vintage travel posters are highly collectible. Click "Read More" to see a selection of travel posters from the exhibition.

Bon Voyage!

89 years ago today, Geneva Porter and her husband Peter embarked on a 4 month cruise (February to June, 1922) on board the RMS Adriatic. At the time, cruises such as this were a posh affair and often made the New York Times as social news with lists of prominent travelers. The Rare Book Room of the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library is privileged to hold Geneva's diary of her grand tour. Entries range from the quality of the food on the cruise to rich descriptions of landscapes and vistas. Joined by good friends and local notables Paul and Penn Schoellkopf, the Porters toured Algiers, Gibraltar, Egypt, France, Belgium, and Italy. Below is an image and transcription of Geneva's diary from February 18, 1922. Subscribe to this blog or check back often to read more entries from her diaries.  Can't wait?  Click here to read all of Geneva's entries regarding her 1922 trip.

Adriatic. 1922. Saturday 18 February.  What a hurry!  And what fun and excitement in the farewells on an ocean liner just about to start.  Everybody feel a bit queerly watching the Statue of Liberty disappear in the distance.  We certainly have been loaded down with presints [sic] of all sorts.  We found some Buffalonian on board.  Pete also some New York friends.  We are all sitting together- 3 children, governess, etc.  The food is very good.  It is so cold Penn and I have decided to stay in our rooms today.  Paul and Pete have gone for a swim.  It seemed very funny having wine with our dinner.  As we were at table, the new boat Paris passed.  We sat in the lounge and smoked after dinner.  We went up to the bar for beer before bed then Pete and I took a walk in the moonlight.



The Oddities of H. Phelps Clawson

Phelps was a skilled photographer and took hundreds of photographs when he traveled.  With a sharp eye for the unique, here are a few of the more unusual sites he captured.

 

Passengers playing cricket on board the Dunottar Castle ocean liner, 1911.

 

GIANT termite nest near Juiz de Fora, Minas Gerais.  Brazil, December 1941.

Offerings for the Devil at the base of a tree. Bahia, Brazil 1941.  Below are Phelps' diary entries describing the custom.

 

From bottom of page:

"Tree on the road with offerings for the Exir (the Devil).  

Dish of Indian corn, a number of cigars, a piece of meat,...

"...jaw of an animal, several pots (now broken) bits of colored cloth.  All there lay at roots of tree.  Sometimes a goat or cock are left.  A man wants something.  He summons the Exir who may appear as a hen, a chicken, a pig, etc.  The fifth time he comes as the Devil.  The bargain is made then for a price (money, a goat, a cow (rarely) or the man's soul.  Then he gets his desire."

Want to learn more?  Read H. Phelps Clawson's Brazil diary here.