Wednesday, March 2, 2011

"A Small Paris." Geneva visits Algiers, March 1 to 2, 1922

This is the third entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry can be viewed here and the second here.  Geneva spent only 24 hours in Algiers, and describes her impressions as a wealthy American tourist in some detail.  Her 1922 diary can be viewed in total- see the link under "Resources" at left.

Wednesday March 1, 1922.  24 hrs.  The coast of Africa and Atlas mtns. are stunning.

Algiers- a beautiful white city (a small Paris). We have had a very pleasant day loafing about. Mr. and Mrs. Sonnsberry[?] and Mr. and Mrs. Shove [?] and Miss Kirkland have planned to go ashore together with us.  We left on first tender about eight o'clock drove all over the city.  Our two guides took us into Arab quarter.  I never saw anything like the narrow streets some all steps no light or air.  Hundreds of overhanging balconies and dark mysterious passageways-
now and then a coffee house or shops with ten or 15 men sitting talking only one or two slinking by in the street in a while.  No lights anywhere.  We were taken up to the top and back of a house thru many winding stairways covered with mosaics and filth to a bedroom (undoubtably tough [?] as possible) to see girls dance in room 10 ft. square.  They were stark nude and did the wildest dance I ever heard of.  Every one thoroughly frightened.  I believe this is against the law.  We came down in hurry with matches and candle.  Everyone was as funny as possible they were so shocked.

Thursday, March 2, 1922.  Get picture of Arab quarter.  Hotel St. George.

All the furniture consisted of large bed covered with Arabic embroidery and painted chest.  Thursday morning we drove all over city.  We saw Governor's Palace at Mustapha Superieur and the rich man's house and the gardens then we went back to the city and went in the oldest Jewish church in Algiers.  The porter showed us a bible on parchment 1600 years old.  Then we went in la Grande Mosque.  We wandered thru the gardens in church at noon.  It was the hour of prayer and all these strange humans in every assortment of rags and riches came, took off shoes and stockings and went in to pray.  Then we drove through the wider streets of the Arab quarter.  Last night we passed a niche in a cement wall big enough for a small statue and a man in white rags was sitting there.  The guide said he lived there.  Probably a holy man or mendic[?] Arab.  We drove out to Hotel St. George on the hill for lunch.  Anne and Jessimine had lunch with us.  We had a lot of fun.  This afternoon we shopped.   Left at five.

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