Clawson's Landscapes

"Digging is a Grave Problem"

Few, if any, normal boys pass the state of adolescence without feeling the urge to undertake some kind of exploration or embark on a hunt for buried treasure.

So began a 1938 article from the Buffalo Courier Express profiling H. Phelps Clawson and his work with the Harvard University-Boston Museum of Fine Arts Archaeological Expedition to Egypt and the Sudan.  Clawson worked as an archaeologist from 1924 to 1931.  Working conditions were difficult, and for one 14 week period, Clawson copied records in a tiny underground chamber measuring only 11 x 8 x 6 feet.

Clawson's transcription of "The Story of Sinuhe."

The Rare Book Room holds a collection of Clawson's papers, which contain significant documentation of his work on the expedition.  His notebooks record his daily activities, peotry, scores of photographs, and his transcription of "The Story of Sinuhe" (as published in K.E. Sethe's Aegyptische Lesestucke) contain hieroglyphs, phonetics, and English translation.

Selective images of his notebooks and photographs are below; click on each for a larger view.  Further images, as well as the finding aid for the H. Phelps Clawson Papers can be viewed- see "Resources" at left.  Lastly, the "H. Phelps Clawson" link at the top of this page has a full biography.

"Song leader at excavations, Sarras AE Sudan 1931."

Clawson with his trusty 7 horsepower Jewett automobile.

Abu Simbel.

Digsite.  Clawson with Noel F. Wheeler.

“15 here.  67 all together.  We sorted them all out 

carefully according to where from- all from 1 tomb.”

"Light and shade and the trace of a rainbow.  
Pyramid of Cheops, 1927"

"Modern Egyptian beds differ little from the style 
used 5,000 years ago of which many specimens are 
found in the tombs.  They consist of a frame 
across which ropes are stretched.  Mr. Clawson 
says they are quite comfortable.  A 4,000 
year old piece of pottery, found in perfect condition 
at Sarras, is shown at this feet."

Source: "Digging is a Grave Problem," Buffalo Courier Express, July 3, 1938, page 4. Courtesy Buffalo State College Archives and Special Collections, repository for the Buffalo Courier Express archives.

Photo at top of entry: "Our camp at Pyramids. Pyramid of Cheops or Kufu. 1929." Photo taken by Clawson during Harvard University - Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition in Egypt and the Sudan.

Baedeker's: Don't Leave Home Without It

In 1827, Karl Baedeker started a publishing company in Germany.  Soon thereafter, he published the first of many of his iconic red-bound travel guides.  Baedeker did not invent the travel guide.  What set his guides apart was the accurate description and ratings of sites, architecture, maps, hotels, prices, and customs.  So influential were these guides, in 1942 the German Luftwaffe bombed Exeter, Bath, Norwich, York, and Canterbury in Great Britain in what came to be known as the Baedeker Blitz.  These towns were chosen because of their 3-star ratings in Baedeker's Guide to Great Britain.

Today, pre-World War I and II Baedeker's are highly collectible.  The Rare Book Room at the Buffalo and Erie County Public Library holds many issues.  A selection can be viewed below.

Karnak, pp. 124-125, from Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 
Leipsic : K. Baedeker, 1892.  Call # DT45 .B17 1892



Map of Nile districts, from Baedeker's Upper Egypt. 
Leipsic : K. Baedeker, 1892.   Call # DT45 .B17 1892.



Baedeker's Central Italy.  Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  
Call # DG416 .B155 1900.



Map of the Vatican, from Baedeker's Central Italy. 
Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  Call # DG416 .B155 1900.



Customs for tourists in Italy, from Baedeker's Central Italy. 
Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  Call # DG416 .B155 1900.



Elevation of Roman Forum, from Baedeker's Central Italy. 
Leipzig, K. Baedeker, 1900.  Call # DG416 .B155 1900.

More images of Baedeker's can be viewed here.



Esperia and Bridge

On March 29 and 30, 1922, Geneva and friends sailed to Esperia, Italy after spending nearly 3 weeks in Egypt. Note her entries from these days give no description at all of Esperia! But she does write of her success at cards. While traveling, Geneva frequently made time for playing bridge (often during evening cocktails). Card games, and bridge in particular, were extremely popular in the 1920s. Geneva often ends her daily diary entries with notes on that day's bridge game, especially if she won.

Geneva and the "Red Count"

Geneva's 1927 travel diary

In 1927, the Porters set sail again, this time on the Conte Rosso ocean liner with fellow passengers and local luminaries the Schoellkopfs and senior Clawsons (H. Phelps' parents). Ocean travel aboard a luxury liner may sound glamorous. However, on March 3, Geneva wrote in her diary of a fierce three day storm:

I awoke in the middle of the night with the bowl of pink roses on my chest. In a few minutes everything in the rooms had fallen- chairs, trunks, everything and the bathroom was a merry go round of trunks and luggage- The boat was rolling from side to side so we could not stand up and hardly stay in bed without hanging on to both sides. We are in the worst storm anyone can remember….Pete’s bed is moving around the room….We are in the trough and waves high as mountains. The stewardess tells us to stay in bed because of broken limbs and flying furniture….Our room is a sight with broken glass….We have changed course three times. It certainly is exciting when the waves hit the boat. I find I am an old salt- never sick or afraid.

On this holiday, the Porters visited 19 cities in 6 countries in 2 months, including those in Italy, Greece, Turkey, Romania, Austria, and France.  The Conte Rosso was a new ship with service beginning 1922.  Known for its luxurious appointments, including steam laundry and outdoor dining, the ostentatious decor was reportedly $400,000, a significant cost for the early 20s.

The main dining salon and lounge are in the style of the fifteenth century.  They are both finished in solid oak, with embossed leather panels, and have the furniture of that period with elaborate sculpture, carvings, and other ornaments.  The music and dancing salon is in the classic Roman-Pompeian style.  The centre holds a slightly raised platform supported by Ionic columns, and the entire effect is that of an old Venetian palace.  The smoking room is Oriental, and in the library and writing room Florentine Renaissance is carried out to the last detail.  (Source:  "Italy's Newest Liner a Model of Luxury."  New York Times, February 19, 1922.)

The Travel Film Archive website has vintage travel film from this era.  The Longest Gangplank was filmed in 1926 on board a similar, though less ostentatious, trans Atlantic cruise and disembarking in France.  View the film here.

Clawson's Menagerie

H. Phelps Clawson took hundreds of photographs when he traveled.  Not content with just capturing the obvious tourist sites, Phelps had a soft spot for animals.  Regardless of time or place, Phelps made sure to document his four-legged friends in all matter of disposition.

Geneva's Egypt, March 10 to 28, 1922

This is the fourth entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry describes her voyage across the Atlantic onboard the RMS Adriatic.  The first stop was in Madeira, Portugal, followed by a short visit to Algiers.  Read all of Geneva's 1922 diary - see the link under "Resources" at left.

For 18 days in 1922, Geneva and Peter Porter, and friends Paul and Penn Schoellkopf traveled throughout Egypt, including Alexandria, Cairo, Heliopolis, Luxor, Thebes, Asswan, Sakkara, and Memphis.  On March 11, Geneva and friends arrived in Cairo, stayed at the historic Shepheard's Hotel, and toured the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, the pyramids at Giza, and Heliopolis.  Below is an image of her diary entries for March 11 and 12.  Click "Read More" for transcriptions.

Travel Magazine

Travel magazine cover.  February 1933.

Travel magazine was in production from 1902 to 2003.  Perfect for those planning trips or just daydreaming of a getaway, the magazine's covers featured beautiful graphic artwork to capture the imagination of readers.  View more Travel covers here.

"A Small Paris." Geneva visits Algiers, March 1 to 2, 1922

This is the third entry in a series on Geneva Porter's 1922 trip to Europe and North Africa. The first entry can be viewed here and the second here.  Geneva spent only 24 hours in Algiers, and describes her impressions as a wealthy American tourist in some detail.  Her 1922 diary can be viewed in total- see the link under "Resources" at left.

Wednesday March 1, 1922.  24 hrs.  The coast of Africa and Atlas mtns. are stunning.

Algiers- a beautiful white city (a small Paris). We have had a very pleasant day loafing about. Mr. and Mrs. Sonnsberry[?] and Mr. and Mrs. Shove [?] and Miss Kirkland have planned to go ashore together with us.  We left on first tender about eight o'clock drove all over the city.  Our two guides took us into Arab quarter.  I never saw anything like the narrow streets some all steps no light or air.  Hundreds of overhanging balconies and dark mysterious passageways-

The Empress of Britain, Cossacks, and H. Phelps Clawson

In 1911, at just 19 years of age, H. Phelps Clawson boarded the luxury liner Empress of Britain in Quebec, Canada. At the time, the Empress of Britain was one of the fastest ships crossing the Atlantic.  Clawson took scores of photographs documenting his adventures on board and on land, and his penchant for capturing everyday people and activities is clearly evident, even at this young age.  Making his way through Europe, he also sailed on the Dunottar Castle and the Olympic ocean liners.  A selection of these photographs is on display here, offering a unique view of Scandinavia, France, and Germany before the first World War, as well as pre-Soviet Russia.